It Is All Down Hill

Photo by Cold Smoke Photography

“Legendary” and “epic.” These two words are fitting descriptions of Taos Ski Valley, located at 9,200 feet above sea level in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains of northern New Mexico. Taos’ claim to fame: an abundance of fabulous terrain, perfect blue skies day in and day out, and deep, fluffy powder.

That powder and terrain were exactly what attracted Ernie Blake to Taos. On May 15, 1954, Blake and a friend hiked to the top of what is now Taos Ski Valley where he found skiing nirvana: feet of deep powder and challenging slopes. Blake and his wife
Rhoda officially founded Taos Ski Valley the following year.

Today, the resort is still a family-owned business. Known for its abundance of steep terrain, Taos rates 51 percent of runs “expert  level” and above, 25 percent are considered “intermediate,” and 24 percent are rated “beginner.”

But newcomers and less aggressive riders fear not, especially when staring up at the mammoth-sized moguls on Al’s Run; Taos offers one of the top-rated ski schools in the country. In fact, the valley’s wildly popular Ski Weeks bring regulars and newbies together for six days of instruction. Ski Weeks are designed to buff up technique, but an added benefit is the spontaneous and long-lasting friendships that develop. 

Taos is known for its steeps, narrows, glades and bump runs. Hardcores can hike The Ridge to Kachina Peak (one of the highest points in New Mexico with an elevation of 12,481 feet above sea level) to find those cherished stashes of powder.

And Taos welcomes snowboarders with open arms—the resort offers a variety of snowboard-centric events, including Women’s Snowboard Camp, which take place on various weekends throughout the season. Expert instructors offer daily snowboard lessons for riders of all ages.

And Taos Ski Valley is not just about skiing and snowboarding. One of the highlights of the season is the annual Taos Winter Wine Festival. The event showcases the finest wines from around the world and includes grand tastings, seminars, and winemaker dinners.

In addition to the wine festival, the resort hosts beer festivals, numerous ski competitions, snowboarding races and clinics. Some of the 2011-2012 season’s highlights are a Christmas Eve torchlight parade, New Year’s Eve slope-side fireworks, and
ongoing workshops and camps for all skill levels. Finally, don’t miss the end of season ritual—the Annual Pond Skimming Contest (April 8), a wacky celebration heralding the change of seasons.

Lodging on the mountain is a blend of rustic ski lodge charm and elegance, with a Swiss-chalet style undertone, harkening back to the Blake family roots. There are a variety of ski-in, ski-out condominiums, quaint bed-and-breakfasts and luxury hotels in the valley.

If you need a break from the slopes, there’s plenty to do: visit the historic town of Taos, with its mixture of Native American culture, historic adobe buildings, Spanish-style plaza, dozens of art galleries, boutique shops and world-class dining. Taos Pueblo’s historic structures are some of the state’s most interesting places.

Today, Taos is far from its more humble beginnings, when there was only one run. Taos Ski Valley is known today as a world-class winter sports destination.

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Seen From Above

A native of Frankfurt, Germany, Ernie Blake immigrated to the United States in 1938 after reading about Aspen and the American West in a ski manual. As manager  of Santa Fe Ski Basin and its sister resort in Glenwood Springs, Blake was responsible for traveling back and forth between the resorts. Eventually he invested in a Cessna 170 to help reduce the length of his commute. 

On his regular flights between Santa Fe and Glenwood Springs, Blake began searching for terrain that might prove suitable for the construction of his own ski mountain. And in 1951, he finally found the spot – a long-abandoned silver mining town named Twining, nestled in a near-inaccessible basin beneath Wheeler Peak in the northern Sangre de Cristo Mountains.

Thanks largely to the continuing effort of his family including three children and 13 grandchildren, Taos remains one of the sport’s most revered destinations – while continuing to foster a homey and decidedly un-corporate feel.

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